A town that took shape in stealth during a time of revolt within the princely state of Travancore roughly between 1798 and 1810, Balaramapuram in present-day Kerala has secured a unique brand name for its handloom dhotis and saris.

The town in Thiruvananthapuram district was named after a former ruler of Travancore, Avittam Thirunal Bala Rama Varma, who was instrumental in developing it as a handloom weaving hub.

Families of skilled handloom weavers were brought from parts of Salem and other small towns in modern-day Tamil Nadu to Travancore during his reign and given land and other resources to set up their weaving units. They were tasked specifically with making special handwoven cloth for the royal family.

Originally, skilled workers belonging to the Shaliya caste were brought in and soon a textile revolution started taking shape with Balaramapuram at its centre. Taking advantage of this growth, more settlers who had migrated to Balaramapuram for supporting jobs within the industry, slowly started learning the craft to set up their own small-scale units to cater to the market.

Today, powerlooms have taken over the industry, with even small home-based manufacturers forced to acquire powerlooms that are faster and can meet the seasonal sales demand.

Shaktivel, a craftsman from Coimbatore, migrated to Balaramapuram 15 years ago, enticed by the opportunities that the industry has offered for generations. Although he is a skilled handloom weaver, Shaktivel now works at a small-scale powerloom manufacturing unit with eight devices set up by a former traditional weaving family in Balaramapuram.

Soft texture

“It is the traditional method of crafting what we call the ‘ Unakkapaavu dhotis ’ that brought business to Balaramapuram. It is an intricate method where naturally processed cotton is hand-stretched and sun-dried before it is woven. This method uses natural non-chemical starches and is priced higher in the market for its soft texture that lasts,” says history professor Joy Balan Vlathangara, who hails from Vlathangara, a village next to Balaramapuram town.

Balaramapuram textiles are celebrated in the market today for its unique brand identity, but gone are the days when handloom weavers were celebrated as skilled artists.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

A power loom worker Shaktivel from Coimbatore who works in a small scale home based power loom unit at Balaramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram on Monday.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Carrying on the legacy: Women work at a small-scale handloom weaving unit in Balaramapuram.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Midas touch: A kasavu sari being woven on a traditional handloom in Balaramapuram.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Adding a shine: Golden threads used for kasavu (border) weaving seen at a cottage industry unit.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Cog in the loom: Many independent home-based weavers still continue their work.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Precise craft: A worker carefully weaves a kasavu sari on a traditional device.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Practised routine: The traditional handloom, called kuzhi thari or pit loom, where workers stand in a pit to operate the device.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

In tune: The movement of a loom is a graceful, repetitive motion that reflects the weaver’s skill. It works by holding the warp threads — the long, vertical threads — under tension so that weft threads (the horizontal ones) can be woven through them.

Photo:
Nirmal Harindran

Parts from the past: Local historian and antiques collector V.J. Abey scouting for old machinery and weaving tools at a home-based powerloom unit in Balaramapuram.