The palmyra climbers of Thoothukudi district in Tamil Nadu eke out a living by harvesting pathaneer, the sap extracted from the flower clusters of the trees. The sap makes for a refreshing drink and can also be processed to make panangkarkandu (palm candy) and karupatti (palm jaggery).
Pathaneer or palm nectar is not fermented to make toddy as its sale is prohibited in Tamil Nadu. Palm jaggery and palm candy are favoured over white sugar as they are made without the use of chemicals and no preservatives are added. The product is also known to have minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants. The palmyra is the State tree of Tamil Nadu.
Palm products are highly sought after and the palmyra tree climbers work hard in arduous conditions to obtain the sap. However, they often do not see the fruit of their labour. They are poorly paid, even though climbing the trees can be a life-threatening task. Morever, the work is seasonal. Sap from palmyra trees is only available for five months in a year. During this time, a worker has to climb a tree three times a day to collect the precious sap, once at about 4 a.m., then at 10 a.m. and then in the evening before the sap dries. The sap is collected in mud pots, coated with lime to prevent it from becoming toddy, tied to the flower clusters.
The sap is boiled in huge pans for making karupatti. Once the boiled pathaneer attains the desirable pasty consistency, it is poured in coconut shells and allowed to cool for a while to get the tasty and sweet karupatti. The boiling of the sap is usually undertaken by the women in the families. The solid blocks are then ready to take to the traders as karupatti. Women add dried ginger, black pepper and thippili (long pepper) powder while making panangkarkandu, a finer version of palm jaggery. This sweetener, now with medicinal properties, enhances the value of the product. It can take several days for the families to produce the palm jaggery, from collecting the sap to processing it.
The karupatti is sold to traders for ₹200 to ₹250 per kilogram, but the market prices can go up to ₹380 per kg.
The number of climbers in Thoothukudi has come down drastically, as their work can be dangerous due to the lack of protective gear and the risk of falls. Many of the climbers do not want their children to take up the work, which is also not lucrative.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Rising to the occasion: A climber halfway into his journey to the top of a palmyra tree at Vembar.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Check list: A climber gets ready with his gear and tools at Vembar village in Thoothukudi district.
Photo:
Rajesh N
A day at work: Palmyra climbers, carrying equipment, walking to work at Kulathoor village in Thoothukudi district.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Ready to go: Maintaining his tools and gear can be matter of life or death for a palmyra tree climber, who is at risk of falls.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Cooling off: A climber washes his feet after a trek up a tree.
Photo:
Rajesh N
End product: A woman carrying a fresh batch of palm jaggery that she has made from the palmyra sap.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Precious stock: A trader arranges the palm jaggery at a shop in village. A kilo can fetch up to ₹400 and the product is preferred by many over white sugar for health reasons.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Syrup thickens: A woman boiling harvested sap to prepare palm jaggery from it at a makeshift hut in Vembar.
Photo:
Rajesh N
Uncertain future: Palmyra climbers and their spouses say that their children may not take up their work because of the risks involved.